2020 rolled in deliciously fat and happy, but by mid-March things looked very different. With the Corona Virus spreading and the government in denial, the virus took off before we realized it posed a threat. My daughter's school closed, my husband began working from home, I took a pay cut and then a period of reduced hours. We didn't complain, we felt lucky to have work and our health. Before long, civil unrest began to spread though cities and towns. When the fourth of July weekend came along, the entire family needed a break from the 2020 news cycle.
We loaded up our backpacks and headed to one of the best Midwestern spots for backpacking. The Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park of Upper Michigan resides along Lake Superior. We planned to visit popular, well visited sites such as the Lake of the Clouds scenic overlook, and then head out in search of the area's more rugged rugged and remote nooks and crannies.
Trip Video
Lake of the Clouds
After checking in for our permits at the visitors center, we parked at the Lake of the Clouds Scenic Area. A hot, humid 90 degree day, our clothes stuck to us the minute we stepped outside. We put on our packs and stopped to admire the view of the Lake of the Clouds before descending down the North Mirror Lake Trail towards Mirror Lake. About 30 people clamored around taking pictures and bumping into one another at the overlook, we decided to move on quickly and do our part to social distance.
Lake of the Clouds
Let the backpacking trip begin!
The trail began to descend for a time. Just when we became as comfortable as one can be hiking in 90 degree weather while being circled by buzzing deer flies and swarms of mosquitoes, we started to head up a steep hill. By the time we reached the top, we were drenched in sweat.
Loon on Mirror Lake
Mirror Lake at sundown
About 4.5 - 5 miles in, we found our campsite, #4, on the south end of Mirror Lake. Loons played on Mirror Lake and other campers paddled, swam and fished the small lake. All the rental cabins and campsites were full. Yes, we were in the backcountry, but it did not feel so much like the wilderness with close neighbors and the sounds of kids squealing with delight playing in the water. This is not a complaint, all seemed to be enjoying the day. Only a note for solitude seekers, if you are seeking solitude another campsite might better suit your needs.
I prepared a dehydrated sweet and sour chicken meal for our family. We relaxed and enjoyed the site, swatting mosquitoes and fanning ourselves to stay cool. While sites 1-4 lie within earshot and sight of one another, we felt some amount of privacy until the people on site 3 arrived. Not a complaint, just a fact that although it is "primitive" camping, the neighbors on #3 and #4 camp side-by-side.
The other fact to note is that to use the bathroom one must employ the dig-a-hole-and-squat method. It became quickly obvious to us that the spot is fairly popular as we saw un-buried and poorly buried toilet paper in a number of spots, and even a pair of underwear working its way out of the ground.
The fog dissipating off Mirror Lake just before sunrise
Sunrise over Mirror Lake
The next morning rolled in with fog on the lake which dissipated quickly at sunrise. We ate breakfast and packed up camp quickly, trying to beat the heat of the hottest part of the day. We swatted at mosquitoes as we hiked back up the North Mirror Lake Trail to the Lake of the Clouds Scenic Area. By the time we reached the Lake of the Clouds parking area, the full heat of the day was upon us.
Lake of the Clouds Scenic Area
We went to our car and raided the cooler inside for fresh, cold water, and then walked just a little over a mile along the road to the trailhead for the Lake Superior Trail. By now my husband once again had rivers of sweat dripping off his body and his clothes were drenched. As we hiked the 3 miles down the rocky Superior Hiking Trail to our next campsite on Lake Superior, the heat and humidity became intense. The fact that most of this portion of the trail heads downhill seemed to be the only thing propelling us forward. We hiked about 9 miles to campsite #17, site but the heat of the day made it feel much further.
The Lake Superior Trail
Our first glimpse of Lake Superior
My husband sweat until water poured off his clothing, all of his clothing completely soaked. We worried he might have heat exhaustion. While my husband and daughter drank Gatorade, I made dehydrated beef stroganoff for my husband and me. My daughter decided to eat a Knorr Pasta side. Not usually the biggest eater, I worried how we'd get all the food down. For the first time ever, she ate the entire bag herself and then started begging for KitKats. As soon as she finished eating at about 2:00 pm she fell asleep in her chair, then laid down in the tent and slept.
The rocky shore of Lake Superior
Flowers along Lake Superior
A gorgeous sunset over Lake Superior
Goodnight all!
Occasional breezes coming across the lake provided much needed relief form the days heat. When the breezes stopped we noticed immediately, and so did the mosquitoes. My daughter never got to enjoy the beautiful views of the lake or explore the shore. She spent the rest of the day asleep. The heat wore her out.
Dawn in camp
Sunrise over Lake Superior
Good morning!
The next morning, we packed up camp early to beat the heat and hiked the 3 miles up the rocky hill back to the trail head. We left my husband with the gear at the trailhead. My daughter and I walked back to the Lake of the Clouds area to get our car while my husband waited with our gear.
Wildflowers along the trail
Someone scratched an "A" into several rocks along the trail, our daughter liked seeing her own initial.
Back to the trailhead
Thankfully, our parking spot had been shady and our cooler had somehow managed to keep our spare water fairly cooled. My daughter and I thoroughly enjoyed the feel of those cold water bottles in our hot hands. My daughter dug into a bag of chips and we drove over to the trail head to pick up Dad and the gear.
After being that hot, and that sweaty we longed to change into dry, clean clothes. A parade of park visitors continued to swarm past. My daughter and I hid in the car the best we could and changed. Then down the road we drove talking about the greatness of air conditioning in cars and cold, cold water.
With that, the fourth of July weekend drew to a close. That's all for now, let's get outdoors and keep our wild places wild!
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