Boundary Waters 2018: Moose River Entry Point 16 to Campsites on Nina Moose Lake, Lac La Croix, Iron Lake, and Oyster Lake

Kicking off our 2018 trip to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA), our family entered the BWCA at Entry Point #16, Moose/Portage River. We spent 9 nights camped on Nina Moose, Lac La Croix, Iron and Oyster Lakes before exiting on day 10. We got rained on, paddled against gusty winds, sunned on slabs of rock and swam. We started awkwardly, careful with each move, then fell into a rhythm with our packing, portaging, paddling and camp-setting that made us feel like part of this place. Just as we began to feel like we truly belonged, our time in this quiet wilderness, like the summer of 2018, began to draw to a close.

Day 0 - The Trip to Northeastern Minnesota

After many months of food dehydration and trip planning, my husband (Gator Paddler), my daughter (Ams) and I (Mama) drove north. After 7 hours of driving we arrived at the Grand Ely Lodge. In the past we've camped and stayed at bunkhouses the night before our BWCA trips, but never enjoyed this level of relative luxury. Later in the afternoon, we headed to Voyageur North to pick up our our entry permit and our rental canoe.

Trip Map

The evening before we entered the BWCA, we enjoyed a game of tether ball on the playground behind the lodge. Disappointed to learn the opening time for Britton's Cafe, Ely's excellent early breakfast spot, had shifted from 5:00 am to 6:00 am, we headed to Subway for sub sandwiches to eat in the morning on the way to the entry point. We wanted to get an early start and try to get to camp ahead of the weather. The forecast? Morning rain likely, with a 50% chance of thundershowers in the afternoon finishing by 3:00pm.

Time to pick up a canoe

Neat canoe art at Voyageur North

Day 1 - Into the BWCA from Entry Point 16 Moose River

The forecast called for morning rain and a 50% chance of thundershowers in the early afternoon. Off we drove into the early morning darkness hoping to beat the rain. We ate sub sandwiches and drove to Entry Point 16 - Moose/Portage River arriving just as it became light outside. The large number of cars parked at the entry point overwhelmed us. Immediately we met a group who had camped in the entry point parking lot the night before. They told us they had come out a day early after paddling from Lac Lac Croix back to the entry point, approximately 15 miles, because no camp sites had been open. None. Zero. 

Day 1 Trip Video 

Nervous at hearing this news, we decided to stop short and take a campsite on Nina Moose Lake should anything be open rather than continuing on to Lake Agnes. We wanted to be safely in camp before the weather become too foul. Was a Friday entry into the Boundary Waters at a busy entry point a bad idea? We would soon find out. 

Ready to launch on the Moose River

As we finished double portaging the 176 rod portage to the Moose River, other groups began to arrive along with some light sprinkles of rain. We paddled off into the sometimes mist, sometimes rain. The Moose River contained a floatable 25 rod portage as someone had come through with a chainsaw. An easy 26 rod portage followed, as well as a couple of broken-up, floatable beaver dams, and 2 beaver dams to portage over. I managed to get a boot stuck in a beaver dam and got a stinky travel sock on day 1 of our 10 day trip. Ah yes, the importance of fast drying materials...will I ever learn my lesson? Darn tough socks are tough, comfortable and great to wear, but dry too "darn" slow.

Ams in camp on Nina Moose Lake

Mama in camp on Nina Moose Lake

When we arrived at Nina Moose Lake around 9:30 am, we found several open campsites and chose campsite 1817. The peninsula site across from 1817 looked very nice, but we were told by a couple who checked it out and moved on, that poison ivy overruns the site. My husband had also seen others make this complaint on forums. By lunchtime it appeared all Nina Moose Lake campsites had filled, including the poison ivy site. We saw a handful of unlucky paddlers look for campsites, then move on.

Our Day 1 visitor on campsite 1817.

A raptor, I believe a juvenile bald eagle, swooped onto our campsite and spent over an hour with us at the top of a tall tree at the water's edge. I enjoyed his company while I prepared a lunch of Knorr Buttery Noodles with tuna and dehydrated applesauce. We also enjoyed watching two pairs of swans, bald eagles, and loons across the water. In the afternoon, Ams and I climbed around on the many boulders at this campsite and followed the shoreline, enjoying our day exploring every morsel of our Nina Moose campsite. 

Ams "lifts" a large boulder on Nina Moose Lake.

Big smiles on Nina Moose Lake

Much to Am's delight, my husband baked biscuits in the reflector oven to accompany dinner, which she ate with some fast-food jelly packets. While rainy and gray all day, the sun managed to peak through the clouds for a moment at sunset time. We never did get the thunderstorms forecasted, just a few rumbles in the distance and some on-and-off light rain throughout the day. And we did find a campsite we enjoyed. With the first day anxieties put to rest, we settled in for a good night's sleep. 

Day 1 sunset on Nina Moose Lake.

Day 2 - Nina Moose Lake to Boulder Bay on Lac La Croix

We woke to a gray Saturday morning and broke camp. The forecast called for a 50% chance of thundershowers. Good luck got us on our way with only occasional bouts of light rainfall and no thunder. As we traveled we encountered many canoeists on the lakes and portages, and began to worry about finding a campsite in Boulder Bay. We paddled north on the Moose River taking 71 and 92 rod portages around rapids. We took a nice break on the 71 rod portage to walk around on the boulders and take a few pictures of the rapids as they are particularly scenic on this stretch of the Moose River.

View from the portage on the Moose River

Family pose near the rapids

Ams and Mama near the rapids

We continued along the Moose River and onto Lake Agnes. By now the wind had picked up and light rain began to fall. We paddled 3 hard miles across Lake Agnes into a headwind. Relief flooded us when we had finally crossed Lake Agnes. After floating a 23 rod portage to Lac La Croix and then crossing a 69 rod Lac La Croix to Lac La Croix portage, we were in Boulder Bay on Lac La Croix. We saw a campsite directly across from the portage which looked good, but we intended to stay for 2 nights and wanted a bit more privacy, so we paddled further southwest.

 Day 2 Video 

The first campsite we checked out was nice, but it had a horribly rocky landing area. The many slick rocks had us all slipping and sliding. This would be horrible for swimming, and we had hoped for a good swimming area for Ams to walk around and play in, so we continued to head southwest to the second site. 

The second site turned out to be an enormous peninsula sight with a wide open sunny kitchen area upfront and a wide open, flat, spacious camp area further back in the shade. The sun came out as we unloaded. As I prepared to set up the camp and start dinner, we began to notice a lot of wasps. 

My husband looked up to see a large, active paper wasp nest hanging from a pine tree just above my head. The hive occupied a prime location on the campsite, and we saw many wasps buzzing around. As tired and ready for dinner as we were, we decided to pack up and check out the first campsite we had previously rejected. We paddled back to the site directly across from the portage.

Nearly to Lake Agnes on the Moose River

Just finished crossing the expanse of Lake Agnes when the rain stopped

This new campsite proved to be good for our family, but did have a paper wasp nest similar to that on the peninsula site, only this time located on the trail to the toilet. As it wasn't directly above our heads in camp and we were able to give it a wide berth by walking off-trail through the trees, we decided to stay. Dinnertime arrived as we set camp. Ravenous after having paddled through lunch, I prepared dehydrated sweet and sour rice with dehydrated ground beef and freeze dried peas. It disappeared in about 2 seconds, and we also ate bagels, cheese and applesauce.

After dinner I had a bit of a thrill. I ran into a fox carrying his dinner as I was out seeking a place to dump my gray dish water. I found it strange the the fox stood relatively close and just looked at me rather than quickly dashing off. I began to call my family to come see the fox, and after listening to me call out increasingly loud, the fox headed off through the trees. Turns out my family heard me but didn't feel like getting up. Everyone felt tired and ready for a good night's sleep.

The sun now low in the sky, I decided to try and climb to the top of a nearby bluff to look at the sunset. A small trail led directly from camp to the bluff. We enjoyed the sunset on the bluff and some good conversation before heading off to bed. During the night light rain fell.

Day 2 sunset over Boulder Bay on Lac La Croix from the bluff

Day 3 - In Camp in Boulder Bay on Lac La Croix

On Day 3 we decided to take a zero day to enjoy hanging around camp. We hoped the sun would come out and make it warm enough for a swim. We also hoped for an opportunity to charge devices with the solar charger. The forecast called for a 50% chance of thundershowers, would we really see the sun?

Some of the beautiful Boulder Bay boulders along Lac La Croix

View from the Bluff over Boulder Bay on Lac La Croix - the sun trying hard to come out

We woke to gray skies expecting the thunderstorms we heard rumbling in the distance to move in. Light rains fell at times. The skies pleasantly cleared at about 10:00 am. I tried to move around camp quietly, letting my family sleep. I got distracted looking at the lake, when a stealthy fox slid into camp and started running off with a nylon bag containing my cook set. I began to give chase and yell at the fox to go away. The commotion woke the family, putting a fast end to their luxurious sleep-in. I made hashbrowns and bacon for brunch and received much appreciation as this is a family favorite. 

Ams and Mama on Day 3

For lunch I made chicken fried rice with dehydrated chicken, minced onion and freeze dried peas. I had decided to not cook and dehydrate the rice for this one meal in advance, to try making rice in camp by boiling and leaving it sit in a steamy pot in the cozy. I have no idea where this crazy thought came from. I know better.

Next time I will dehydrate the rice, the meal took an hour longer to make than I had planned. Ams took a good long nap after lunch and the gray skies and sprinkles returned. While she slept I checked out the view from the bluff to the east of camp and wandered over to the point to the west. The day never did get warm and sunny enough for the swim Ams so much wanted. Not much solar charging was accomplished. We would have to postpone our hopes for a swim to another day. 

Chicken fried rice

Throughout this Sunday afternoon, a number of boats passed by. Some just passed through, some sought campsites. We felt fortunate to be settled as we saw the day grow late with campsite seekers still out and about. 

 Day 3 Video - Fox in Camp

Although we did not get the sun we had hoped for, the day did offer some special highlights. My husband discovered four ruffed grouse on the toilet trail. We enjoyed watching them forage. We did wonder if the fox would be having grouse for dinner. Later than evening the fox cut through camp with what appeared to be a mouse in his mouth. I supposed maybe the grouse had gotten lucky since the fox clearly had a 4-legged dinner. 

For our dinner I prepared dehydrated chili with crushed Fritos and my husband cooked cornbread in the reflector over. We enjoyed this luxurious day of hanging out in camp and eating like kings and queens. 

Mmmmm, it's ready!

Chili with Fritos and cornbread

Ams loves cornbread prepared in the reflector oven

We listened to the weather radio, learning the thunderstorm probability for the night and next day was once again 50%. After sunset, clouds and sprinkles began to move back in. Shortly after we turned in for the evening, lightening began to flash wildly in the distance. Eventually a very loud thunderstorm storm arrived. Ams clung to me. We did not get much sleep. We did get the full forecasted 50% and then some.

A calm sunset before the storm

The sunset looking like fire in the sky

Day 4 - Lac La Croix to Iron Lake via the Bottle Portage

We listened to loud early morning thunderstorms which eventually gave way to the pitter-patter of rain on the rainfly. The rain stopped at about 4:00 am, so I left the tent and to my surprise the moon shone and the sky had begun to clear. We rose early to prepare to take the Bottle Portage to Iron Lake and seek a campsite. People in recent reports I had read online had reported experiencing all the sites on Iron Lake taken, and I wondered if we would get a site or be forced to move on to Crooked Lake. 

The forecast continued to call for a 50% chance of thundershowers, which had started to become a running joke with us. What's the forecast? 50%! The forecast left us once again hoping we'd make it to the next campsite without getting caught up in bad weather.

Before sunrise the storm cleared out and the moon shone bright on Day 4

As I began to wander around the campsite by the light of my headlamp, I noticed our gear under the tarp had been strewn about and began to tidy up. Next, I saw that something had taken the plastic bag holding my husband's rain-suit and run off about 20 feet before chewing a hole into the bag and then abandoning it. We assumed the fox had returned, and carefully inventoried our belongings as we packed up our wet tent and wet gear. Thankfully nothing appeared to be missing.

The calm narrow bay at the Bottle Portage on Lac La Croix

Flowers along the Bottle Portage

We set off, and the sun came out. Our paddle started out calm, but the winds became furious as we paddled east into the sun on Lac La Croix. As the lake became very wavy and each paddle stroke required great effort. We felt much relief as we pulled up to the more protected 83 rod Bottle Portage. 

The Webster-Ashburton Treaty between the US and Canada allows US and Candadian paddlers to use border portages while travelling through the BWCA and Quetico. Interestingly enough, motorboats are not allowed on the US side of Lac La Croix, but are allowed in Canada. We saw a shuttle boat bring a number of boats and canoeists to the Bottle Portage as we finished the last leg of our double portage.

Day 4 Video - Leaving our campsite in Boulder Bay and paddling to our new site on Iron Lake

The landing on the Lac La Croix side of the bottle portage proved easy, but the mucky Bottle Lake side of this portage provided a mess. Being relatively small, Bottle Lake offered a nice break from the struggle to paddle through the wind and waves. Once across Bottle Lake, also part of Quetico, we floated through a rock garden into Iron Lake, bumping into an occasional rock as reflected light created difficulty seeing below the surface of the water. Iron Lake, like Lac La Croix, is part of Quetico Park as well as the BWCA, and the US/Canada border runs through Iron Lake.

Our campsite on Iron Lake looking at Canada across the lake

The winds grew cold, the sky grayed and it began to sprinkle. The winds made for rough paddling on Iron Lake. We felt our paddling muscles burn, so we checked a peninsula campsite which appeared overgrown and underused. Although we wanted to be done paddling, we reluctantly moved on. We couldn't see ourselves staying here 2 full days and wanted a site we could see ourselves enjoying. The next campsite looked nice but occupied, we pushed forward towards the east end of Iron Lake. 

Ams happy the wind finally  calmed down on Iron Lake

Ams found many delightful shells to look at on Iron Lake

Ams wanted an island site, so we pushed forward to an island having two sites. The sites looked small, so we headed to a bay to the southwest of the island, and found a large campsite with plenty of room to roam up and down the shoreline. The winds switched and now brought cold air out of the northwest. 

The day grew colder and the sun remained hidden. We got camp set before light rain sprinkled down.  I cooked beef stroganoff using Knorr prepackaged beef stroganoff flavored noodles, dehydrated ground beef and freeze dried peas. Our meal disappeared amazingly fast.

Exploring many little rocky points along Iron Lake

Our frequent visitor on this campsite

For entertainment we walked along the shore, checking out some pretty points and trying to make it to a point that looked remarkably pink compared to the others. Overall the day proved successful. We had no issue getting a campsite on Iron Lake and had several options to choose from. We never did get a thunderstorm. Just cold wind and some light rain. 

I finally felt like we were in the wilderness, as we only saw one group come across Iron Lake all day and no one camped in any of the campsites near us. From our journey around the lake it appeared only one other campsite on this large lake had been taken. The night too gray for a sunset, we turned in early and slept soundly as rain sprinkled our tent. We made plans to stay on this campsite for two nights and use the next day to make a day trip to Curtain Falls.

Day 5 - Day Trip to Curtain Falls

We woke to a cold but less windy morning with only gray skies for a sunrise. Once again the forecast called for a 50% chance of thundershowers, this time heavy. A mouse snuck fearfully in and out of our camp kitchen. As mice are not strong enough to carry off cook kits, this caused much less commotion than the fox caused on our Boulder Bay campsite.

We followed the weather radio closely and took our time eating a luxurious pancake, bacon, and oatmeal breakfast. Once convinced the day would provide safe enough passage, we paddled a short 2 miles over to the 119 rod portage between Iron Lake and Crooked Lake, which is home to Curtain Falls.  

Day 5 Video 

Low winds made paddling easy. At the portage, we paddled up against the current though small rapids, then through a bit of a rock garden to get onto the portage trail. Excited to see the falls, we hiked the portage trail. Our excitement grew as the sound of pounding water became louder. The most spectacular part of Curtains Falls resided to the east on the Crooked Lake end of the portage. The falls thundered dramatically, looking powerful against the rainy skies, and the sun even peeked out for a few moments.  For time to time, mist and light rain fell.

Curtain Falls

One of many US/Canada reference markers near Curtain Falls

Like Lac La Croix and Iron Lake, Curtain Falls is on the US/Canada border. The breathtaking views at Curtain Falls inspired us to do much photography and we even managed to get a picture of one of the many US/Canada boundary markers. We saw eagles and a gull flying around the falls. Glimpses of red and yellow leaves showed us signs of autumn fast approaching. It was a beautiful day in the BWCA.

The whole family agreed the falls were a wonderful highlight of our trip

We saw only one other group this day, and we ran into them coming onto the portage from Crooked Lake as we sat at the top of Curtain Falls. I would have liked to stay longer, but it became obvious they were waiting around for us to leave so that they could do some photography of their own, so down the portage trail we went. This day also provided a feeling of being a bit closer to the wilderness as we only saw this one group. Perhaps the weather kept everyone hunkered down in place, perhaps Tuesdays aren't particularly busy in the BWCA.

After our wonderful visit to the falls we paddled back to camp. Now late afternoon, we felt ravenous having missed lunch. We made one of our family's favorite camping meals, Idahoan Loaded Baked Potato Soup sprinkled with bacon bits and a side of cheesy garlic biscuits made in the reflector oven.

The evening sky once again offered nothing but gray for a sunset. Our 10 day trip now half over, and with the forecast still calling for a 50% chance of thundershowers, we went to bed early talking about heading back to Lac La Croix to seek an island site in the morning. 

Day 6 - Iron Lake to Lac La Croix in Search of an Island Campsite 

How wonderful to wake up to clearing skies and sun. On Day 6 we rose early and packed camp. We headed back to Lac La Croix to look for a campsite in Tiger Bay. Specifically, Ams wanted an island site where she could swim and lay on the warm rocks. Would she get her island campsite?

Gorgeous morning for a paddle on Iron Lake

After a cold breakfast of jerky, trail mix and granola bars, we paddled west on Iron Lake on a gorgeous, sunny morning across water as still as reflective glass. When we neared the east end of Iron Lake we began to see people. We also ran into others on the Bottle Portage. Perhaps the sun and calm waters brought people out, perhaps Wednesday is just a good day to go camping. Either way more paddlers seemed to be on the move.

One of those days where paddling is pure pleasure.

At the mucky Bottle Lake end of the Bottle Portage

We ran into a group base-camped on Lac La Croix but headed to Iron Lake to fish. They told us most of the campsites on Lac La Croix were full. We passed an open campsite on the southwest end of the island near the Bottle Portage and took a look. It had nice views and some nice flat rocks to warm ourselves on and swim from, but if did not have a great tent pad and it did have a little bit of poison ivy in spots. We decided to take the campsite based on the information from the other paddlers about most campsites being full. Later in the day the number of paddlers passing by looking for sites convinced us we made a good decision. 

At the Lac La Croix end of the Bottle Portage

At the Lac La Croix end of the Bottle Portage

I made Knorr Buttery Noodles with dehydrated brocoli and dehydrated ground beef for lunch with a side of applesauce and cheese. The sun began to warm us, and we decided to go for a swim. With slippery aquatic slime growing on the rocks below our feet we tread carefully into the water. Unlike many of the cleaner lakes in the BWCA, we noticed many particulate green and brown bits in the water. We enjoyed frolicking in the deep water and found underwater boulders to stand on, making a game of pushing one another off. We became cold in the wind, and dried ourselves on sun-warmed rocks. 

Day 6 Video

Ams announced that her toe hurt. A vibrant, angry red and swollen, her toe looked infected around the nail. I heated a small pot of water and added some salt and some antibacterial soap (I bring a small amount in case of emergencies but usually do not use) into the pot for soaking. After the soak, her swelling and redness had nearly disappeared and she said her toe now only hurt a tiny bit after the soak. In hindsight I suspect perhaps she had something in her toe that came out during the soak. At the time, I bandaged her up with antibiotic ointment and a band-aid, and I wondered if we would be going out early with a toe infection.

An alien helping Mama set up the tent

Ams blowing up mats with Mama

I made dehydrated spaghetti, and for the first time in Am's life she ate and liked spaghetti. Swimming does wonderful things for the appetite! We enjoyed the sunset with another successful day on the books. And yes, Ams finally did get to camp on an island site! The weather forecast called for partly cloudy skies and gusty wind to following day. We went to sleep with plans of sleeping in and taking a zero day. We wanted to swim some more, possibly take a day paddle to check out an old ranger's cabin, and charge our electronics.

Lac La Croix sunset-time view to the southeast

Lac La Croix Sunset to the southwest

Day 7 - In Camp on Lac La Croix

I woke early and enjoyed watching a beautiful but cold sunrise. The day started out sunny and windy. My husband rose an hour or two later, and we enjoyed some quiet adult time for a couple of hours before our daughter woke. While we sat watching the water, an eagle came across the lake and landed in a tree quite near us. In the distance an eagle looks like a mere bird. Close up, this eagle's size took our breath away.

Day 7 sunrise over Lac La Croix

I served dehydrated shepherd's pie with dehydrated ground beef and fastfood ketchup packets for breakfast while Ams slept. The recipe comes from a video on Kevin Outdoors, a nice Canadian YouTube channel for canoeists and backpackers. Here's the link if you'd like to check out the recipe.

Day 7 Video

The day felt even windier than forecast (15 mph with 25 mph gusts), and I had no desire to hop into the canoe and fight the waves, so we relaxed around camp. I ended up making our previously planned hashbrown and bacon breakfast for lunch. My husband talked about cooking on the reflector oven for dinner, so Ams and I collected firewood. I found an MSR foldable spatula in the grass as I sought kindling along the shore. 

View to the North from our campsite on Lac La Croix

Despite the cold wind, we swam as we all needed baths. We counted on sunny rock outcroppings to warm us. We enjoyed another good time playing in the water and bouncing amongst the waves. The swim worked up our appetites. I prepared dehyrated chicken curry. My husband built a fire and prepared a cake made from blueberry muffin mix in the reflector oven. 

The fire felt good on this cold windy day. After dinner, we began to see paddlers out looking for sites. I felt concern for people out so late and still without a site. By now it was the Thursday before the Labor Day holiday weekend and I wondered exactly how busy the lakes were. We don't like to stay on a site more than 2 nights and planned to move in the morning. I worried about the Friday of a holiday weekend crowds and finding a site as we prepared to turn in for the evening.

The girls warming ourselves on the rocks after our swim

That evening, we did some more toe-soaking and bandaging with Ams, and her toe looked better and no longer felt tender. The attention now probably unnecessary, I was proceeding based only on a better safe than sorry mindset. We enjoyed a wonderful sunset (behind the trees, but a beautiful sky at sunset nonetheless). 

The weather forecast returned to it's same old 50% chance for thundershowers starting sometime in the night and going through the next day. Just for fun we began to ask, what's the weather forecast? Then we'd say "50%" and have a good laugh. We turned in, deciding to rise early and head to Oyster Lake in the morning to get off the beaten path and possibly avoid some of the holiday weekend crowds.

Sunset time on Lac La Croix

Day 8 - Lac La Croix to Oyster Lake

It didn't rain over night, I suppose we had the better side of the 50% of the forecast. With Oyster Lake being off the beaten path through Nina Moose Lake and Lake Agnes, we thought we might find a bit of quiet away from the crowds, but we needed to travel a bit to get there. We woke early to try to avoid the crowds and get a good campsite, or any campsite at all, on Oyster Lake, this being the Friday of a holiday weekend. Would we get our site?

Am's toe looked and felt as good as new, and we were ready to move on. Gray skies greeted us in the morning. Luck kept us dry as we packed up camp. Mist and then light rain dampened our hair and chilled us as we paddled. 

Ams is ready to go to Oyster Lake

We crossed the easy 69 and 23 rod Lac La Croix portages and started paddling Lake Agnes as the wind continued to pick up. By the time we reached the 188 rod portage from Agnes Lake to the Oyster River, we looked upon the 188 rod portage as a relief from sore paddling muscles after the windy paddling on Lake Agnes and Lac La Croix. We found the Lake Agnes end of the portage to the Oyster River to be a bit like a sand beach, and thought on a nicer day with some time to kill it might just be a good spot for a little swim. 

Day 8 Video 

When we arrived at the Oyster River end of the portage and realized this end offered a steep hill along with a squishy, mucky mess. We became far less enamored of the portage. Immediately Ams headed out into the muck, trying to walk on a log while looking for frogs. Soon, one foot slipped off the log and began sinking into the mud. Up came her foot without her boot, it had been sucked off by the muck. Out into the muck I hurried to save her boot. Crisis averted.

Asters on the portage trail

Autumn is on its way on the portage trail

We made it through the portage all in one piece, and enjoyed paddling the beautiful, quiet Oyster River. Occasionally a few sprinkles of rain fell. The 67 rod portage from Oyster River to Oyster Lake felt easy, and once on the other side we found the campsite near the portage open, but with a downed tree across the prime area of the campsite. 

We decided to paddle across the lake to check on the availablity of a more desirable campsite which turned out to be occupied. We headed back across Oyster Lake in the rain and claimed the campsite near the portage. The downed tree occupied a good bit of prime real-estate on the site, and we imagined this had been a 5 star campsite before the tree had fallen. We also imagined what it must of been like to hear this giant tree crashing to the ground while sleeping in a tent.

Rainy day on Oyster Lake

We set up camp as quickly as we could as light rain fell. Thankfully the rain did not become heavy until we had our tarp and tent up. Just as we got camp set up, we began to see other groups of paddlers seeking and not finding campsites in the rain. Even with us a bit off the beaten path, and even in the rain, the holiday had the BWCA very busy indeed.

Mac and Cheese with dehydrated ground beef and dehydrated broccoli

To feed our family of hungry paddlers, I made mac and cheese mixed with dehydrated broccoli and dehydrated ground beef for dinner. With full stomachs we watched the rain and the canoeists paddling around the lake looking for campsites. The rain continued for the remainder of the day, which went by quickly. We headed to bed once again with gray skies for a sunset.

As we had hoped, we did get our campsite on Oyster Lake and we did get to set camp before the rain became very heavy. While thunder did rumble in the distance, it never became close enough for us to see any lightning. We listened to the weather radio and the forecast called for a clear morning. We made plans to charge our devices and swim. And just like that, another day in the BWCA faded into night.

Day 9 - In Camp on Oyster Lake

The forecast called for a clear morning and a partly sunny day. We had high hopes for beautiful light at sunrise, good swimming, and a chance to dry our gear and charge our devices. I woke excited at this prospect only to step out of the tent to a drizzly, cloudy early morning. Would we get a sunny day to swim as we hoped?  

I made oatmeal with dehydrated bananas, this time adding peanut butter. This sounds absolutely disgusting to me as I now write, but at the time it tasted phenomenal. At this point in the trip I had started feeling very, very hungry. The big helping of peanut butter in the oatmeal did the trick. Even before it became fully light outside, I began to see canoeists crossing Oyster Lake. Clearly even quieter lakes are not quiet on a dry Saturday during Labor Day weekend.

The clouds and fog nearly done lifting

Morning moon

A sunny morning, yes more clouds passing through, but no rain!

At about 8:00 am the sun began to appear. The fog began to lift and the clouds slowly began to dissipate, paving the way for a sunny day.  What a glorious feeling! My husband woke and we decided to let our daughter sleep late. We enjoyed some adult time talking, spotting birds, and enjoying the morning as we watched many canoeists pass by.

This pretty little warbler returned many times to our campsite

This campsite turned out to be a wonderful spot for birds. Songbirds and hummingbirds returned to the site throughout our stay. We also had eagles and loons very close to camp. As my husband and I sat by the lake, an eagle that unbeknownst to us had been perched in a tree quite near us, swooped down just over our heads, touched his wings down on the water in front of us, then flew to a nearby tree. We could feel and hear the light swoosh of his feathers. This moment of being so close to this powerful animal felt amazing. For a short time after the eagle swooped us, we had that special alone in the wilderness feeling, until we noticed another canoe nearing the tree where the eagle had just landed.

After cooking for all, it's my turn for pancakes, yum!

My family loves zero days with cooked breakfasts. Once Ams rose, I prepared a pancake and bacon breakfast. We all enjoyed our pancakes our own special way. Ams with warm melty chocolate chips cooked within, my husband with syrup, and I with butter.

Day 9 Video 

By this time the sun had dried our campsite it had become the kind of pretty day in that BWCA dreams are made of. We dried all our wet gear and clothing, charged our cameras and phones, and had a wonderful time in the sun. Ams and I poked around the shore near our campsite looking for the perfect rock to warm ourselves on before swimming, as it was a bit cold and windy. 

Finding a sheltered rock slab to warm up on in the sun before our swim

Earlier my husband found a leech on a rock he had picked up from a sheltered crevice in shallow water near camp. Ams brought the leech up more than several times sounding perhaps a little worried.  I wondered if Ams would resist swimming due to the leech. To my surprise she jumped right into the water. After nine days away from showers and bathtubs, these swims are very refreshing, and I felt relieved she jumped in.

Day 10 Video 

My husband explored the depths and found a good spot to jump off the rock ledge surrounding camp. Our family had a good time jumping into Oyster Lake. Just as the fun became real sport, a group of three canoes cut close to our campsite through the waters we swam. This intimidated Ams, and she stopped  swimming. Then she asked me if any leeches were on her legs. She hadn't forgotten after all. And no, there were not.

After our swim in the clean, clear water of Oyster Lake, we put on the cleanest clothes we had and felt very refreshed. I combed Ams hair and remade her braids and then redid my own. Many boats continued to cross the lake, I stopped counting after 27. I've never before seen anywhere near that many boats pass by a campsite in the BWCA, even on busy lakes. Oyster Lake proved busier than we expected on this Saturday of Labor Day weekend.

We made dehydrated Spanish rice with dehydrated ground beef and crushed Fritos for dinner. We also made a Backpacker's Pantry meal Ams had selected for the trip, sweet and sour chicken, because she said she didn't like Spanish rice. The first few bites she said it tasted really good. After that, she couldn't tolerate it. No one in our family liked the sweet and sour chicken, and Dad ended up choking it down while Ams feasted on Spanish rice and applesauce. I don't eat sugar, and felt glad to be left off the hook.

Feeling refreshed after our swim on Oyster Lake

As we enjoyed our last full day in camp, we talked about how it really didn't feel like we'd been in the BWCA 9 days already. We talked about how Day 10 would be a big day: 7 portages, 2 beaver dams and nearly 15 miles of paddling and portaging to exit the BWCA. Before long, the sun began to fall from the sky providing amazing views to the west directly across the lake from camp.

Our last sunset in the BWCA

Shall we stay up late and look at the stars?

My husband sporting the starts of a beard

Our family after 9 glorious days of camping

This being a clear, cool night, we bundled up in our warmest clothes to watch the stars. We were rewarded with some amazing views of the sky. Another nice opportunity to share some family time in the BWCA.

Waiting for the stars

Day 10 - Paddling Out

On Day 10 we rose early and packed camp in record time. As usual, the forecast called for a 50% chance of thundershowers. The day started out fairly clear and pretty, but began to cloud up as we readied to launch. By the time we arrived at the first portage, sprinkles of rain began to fall.

Rise and shine time!

We paddled a short distance on Oyster Lake to the 67 rod portage to the Oyster River. We didn't like the muddy portage from the Oyster River to Agnes Lake the first time through. With shoe-sucking, deep-sinking mud as well as a steep hill to carry the canoe and packs up, we didn't look forward to crossing. We talked about taking the Oyster River all the way to the Moose River as a shortcut, but in the end we sucked it up and did the portage. We decided that if the river proved impassible we'd only have to turn back adding more time and miles to the trip.

Day 10 just leaving camp

As we did the 188 rod portage from Oyster River to Lake Agnes, thunder began to rumble and the rain continued. We paddled hard and fast to get across Lake Agnes. I worried the thunder might draw closer. We floated onto the Moose River as the thunder stopped, and soon we saw our first paddlers of the day. 

A group of 4 had decided to try the very same Oyster River route bypassing the mucky portage and Lake Agnes we had contemplated. They told us it was "terrible", thick with aquatic plant life, and that they had to climb over 5 or 6 beaver dams. We felt glad we didn't chance it. Shortly after we ran into these paddlers, we began to see many other groups. 

On the 92 rod portage around the rapids on the Moose River, things became very busy. The portage bustled with congestion. Because some groups of perhaps less experienced, perhaps less polite paddlers left their boats right in the middle of the portage entry on both ends, we waited in a line with other canoeists to both unload and reload. 

Clouding up as we head to our first portage of the day

We experienced more congestion at the 71 rod Moose River portage. As we arrived at Nina Moose Lake, which also looked busy, the rain fully stopped and the sun began to emerge. Most of the campsites appeared to be already occupied for the day. Across Nina Moose Lake we got back onto the Moose River. The day grew warmer and the sun grew brighter. It shaped up to be a pretty day. We did a 26 rod portage and floated around a 25 rod portage, still running into other paddlers at every turn. 

We arrived at the Moose River exit point and started the 176 rod portage to the parking lot. Our longest day of paddling and portaging of this trip now complete, we looked forward to showers and a nice dinner. Due to rain during the first portion of the day, followed by running into a number of frustrated people on the congested portages later in the day, I did not do much photography throughout this stretch of paddling.

As we finished portaging our last load of gear to the car at around 3:00 pm,  we saw 3 or 4 other groups doing the same. But we also saw a couple of groups of paddlers had just arrived and had begun getting their gear to the put-in for their trips. I felt a twinge of envy at their going in, but had a hard time imagining them finding available campsites before dark.

Ams and Mama in the BWCA

We drove down the Echo Trail to return our canoe to Voyageur North behind 3 other canoe-carrying cars, this making us the caravan caboose. After much needed showers at Voyageur North, Dad and Ams selected tee shirts to commemorate our trip. Then, we headed to the Rockwood for a delicious dinner. 

My cheese curds appetizer disappeared quickly, and my steak salad tasted divine. My husband enjoyed the steak sandwich, and Ams ordered an adult meal, skirt steak with mashed potatoes and gravy. She did eat her steak with a fury like I've never seen before and enjoyed it very much. Now exhausted, we drove home mostly in silence, Ams and I drifting in and out of sleep. 

I already long for more time in the BWCA and hope to return next summer!

Looking back, our time in the Boundary Waters passed quickly. I still laugh when I hear a forecast for a "50% chance for thundershowers", the forecast for most of our 10 days in the BWCA. One thing we learned on this trip is that while Lac La Croix and Iron Lake were very beautiful, we like to be in camp on smaller, more intimate lakes. Lac La Croix was relatively dirty with particulate matter and plant life suspended in the water as compared to other lakes in the BWCA. The US/Canada border runs across Lac La Croix and Iron Lake, and I wonder if there is development on the Canada side contributing to the debris in the lakes. I did see motorboats on Lac La Croix on the Canada side.


My husband tells me people on the forums he frequents often call the BWCA a "fake wilderness". The number of canoeists we observed on this trip helps me understand this accusation. Next time we will strive for quieter, more intimate lakes. For the three years prior to this trip, we always managed to find at least one quiet lake to ourselves or to go a couple days without seeing other people. Although we know on the basis of logical fact it's not the case given the number of canoeists in the BWCA at any given time, before this trip, we've always managed to spend some time feeling like we were alone in the wilderness.

Please click the link if you are interested in our trip menu or watch the video below.

Video showing our trip menu