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We planned to paddle a loop starting from Cross Bay Lake Entry Point #50, through the Frost River, then head north to camp on a couple of lakes, and exit via the Tuscarora-to-Missing Link portage taking out at Tuscarora Outfitters. This would allow us to cross two more quintessential BWCA experiences off our bucket lists, the ambitious Frost River Route and the Tuscarora-to-Missing Link Portage. We would end the trip at Tuscarora Outfitters and walk to retrieve the car from the parking area for Entry Point #50, have a shower, and then stop at the Trail Center for a late lunch on the way home.
Our view of Gunflint Lake from our Gunflint Pines campsite before the rain began.
To kick things off, we made our traditional Subway stop on the trip north. We picked up subs to save for breakfast Day 1 of our BWCA trip. We arrived in Northern Minnesota and camped at the Gunflint Pines Campground and Resort on Gunflint Lake. Shortly after we set up camp it began to sprinkle and then rain. Our single night at the Gunflint Pines cost more than our entry permit for 10 days in the BWCA. The campground was nice and offered lakefront campsites with electrical hookup, cabins, canoe and kayak rentals, boat rentals; showers and a shop with snacks.
Day 1
It rained most of the night. In the morning, the rain slowed and we packed our wet tarp and tent, leaving the Gunflint Pines Campground early. We drove to the parking area for Entry Point #50. This day we planned to check out the campsite on the south end of Cross Bay Lake and if we liked it, we would take it. If not, we would paddle to Long Island Lake.
We arrived to the put-in where a larger group endeavored to organize themselves. We decided to take our time in the parking lot, giving them some space to figure out how to trim out their canoes and push off. Eventually they paddled away and we brought our gear down to the landing. On this trip Dad carried the canoe and a large blue portage pack, Ams carried a portage pack and our paddles, and I carried our blue food barrel on my back with a smaller pack on my front. The careful weighing and culling effort undertaken to achieve this pack-out allowed us to single portage. Having done it both ways, I must say single portaging is excellent for our group's morale.
Entry Point 50 parking area
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Our full pack-out is ready to go, Cross River on the way to Entry Point 50, Cross Bay Lake
Our first portage of the trip around rapids on Cross Bay River
We put in on the Cross River. Soon we arrived at the first portage where we quickly remembered how rocky the landings and portages up the Gunflint Trail can be. Here we caught up to the group ahead of us. One of the group straggled behind with an overweight pack to carry, above his capacity. We offered to help. He refused and stood on the landing blocking our path off the rocks as he waited for his group to notice him missing and come back for him. Once help arrived, he moved down the trail and we started to gather our gear and make our first portage of the trip.
Video - Days 1 -3
Ams put on her pack and grabbed our three paddles, Dad put on his pack and heaved the canoe onto his shoulders, and I carried the food barrel on my back with a second pack in the front. At the other end of the portage, the man with the over capacity pack repeated several times his paddle had gone missing, eyeing us suspiciously. None of the others in his group appeared to be particularly concerned. We carry three paddles, one per person, and we had our old familiar three. We loaded our canoe making it clear for all to see that we had only our own paddles, then we headed down the river.
Ham Lake, still not in the BWCA with the sky darkening.
We portaged 30 rods from the Cross River into Ham Lake, and found all campsites on Ham Lake empty. Ham Lake is not yet inside the BWCA, and we needed to enter the BWCA on the date of our permit, so we did not take the time to check out any of these campsites. On Ham Lake the sky began to turn ugly, but luck held and surprisingly we didn't get more than a couple of raindrops. We portaged 24 rods into Cross Bay Lake and paddled to the southern end of the lake where we checked out campsite 558. We found the peninsula campsite across from the portage to be spacious with good views. It offered a couple of tent pads to select from, various views from the rocks above camp, and plenty of room to roam. We decided to stay.
Cross Bay Lake
View from Cross Bay Lake
The day became warm and sunny as we set up camp. We made dehydrated enchilada rice with dehydrated ground beef garnished with baby bel cheese and crushed Fritos for lunch. Then my family relaxed in their hammocks while I did dishes and went for a swim. We noticed higher water levels than we encountered in 2021, and mushrooms everywhere. We talked about the rockiness of the terrain recalling other trips off the Gunflint Trail with very rocky portage trails, landings and campsites,
Mushroom in Camp
Another mushroom in camp
All kinds of mushrooms!
View from Camp
Throughout the day we heard the continuous roar of the rapids alongside the portage to the south of our campsite. Soon hoots and hollers from that direction told us the rapids alongside that portage might be worth checking out. The next day we would stay in camp, eat some weight out of the food barrel and take a day trip over to the rapids to hang out. For dinner we made breakfast, bacon, hash browns and applesauce. Before long the moon rose and night fell.
Goodnight Day 1
Sundown Day 1
Map Day 1: To Entry Point 50 and Campsite 558 on Cross Bay Lake
Day 2
On Day 2, I got up before the sun and watched a beaver pushing freshly chewed wood around the lake. I ate granola for breakfast as the sun come up. Soon my husand joined me. We processed firewood and relaxed. When our teenager finally emerged from the tent we decided to make dehydrated mashed potatoes with dehydrated ground beef and cheese. The sun felt hot and the sky remained clear.
Early morning Day 2, Cross Bay Lake
Cross Bay Lake
After lunch we took a short paddle to the portage between Cross Bay Lake and Rib Lake to check out the rapids along the portage. To find the rapids, look on the Cross Bay end of the portage, take a short bushwhack to the west of the landing along a barely visable trail. The rapids were beautiful and refreshing on this hot afternoon. We could not resist, we played in the rapids and let the falling water rush over us.
Rapids along the portage between Cross Bay Lake and Rib Lake
Family at the Cross Bay Rapids
Back in camp, we enjoyed some hammock time, and made dehydrated sweet sour chicken for dinner. After dinner the mosquitos thickened, so we built a fire. We talked about stopping at the Trail Center for a meal on the way home from the BWCA, and spend some time fantasizing about our food selections. We watched thousands of ants relocating from one dead stump to another. The moon rose. Life was downright dreamy.
Firewood ready to go on Cross Bay Lake
Sunset Day 2
The moon, night 2.
Fire, night 2.
Day 3
On Day 3 we packed up and decided to look for a campsite on Long Island Lake. We paddled south on Cross Bay Lake to the 59 rod portage into Rib Lake, and paddled to the south end of Rib Lake. We paddled 36 rods into Lower George Lake, paddled to the south end of Lower George Lake, and then portaged 28 rods into Karl Lake. After a short paddle on Karl Lake we portaged 33 rods into Long Island Lake and headed towards campsite 570. This turned out to be a big day for people, we saw others on nearly every lake and portage. Despite seeing many people out and about, our early start paid off, we found the campsite my husband wanted open.
Mirror still on Cross Bay Lake
Map Day 3: Campsite 558 on Cross Bay Lake to Campsite 570 on Long Island Lake.
The day remained mostly sunny with a few clouds. We set up camp and prepared a Mountain House Skillet Breakfast and a Mountain House Biscuits with Sausage Gravy for lunch. The campsite boasted a wonderful sandy, shallow landing. I thought it would be a great place for a swim until my husband pointed out a 4 inch long leech wiggling around in the water. Shortly after I saw a few more smaller leeches.
Video Days 4 - 6
My husband set up his hammock, and our daughter found a cell signal and got on her phone. I spent some time finding a place to push off from a big rock into deep water and took a refreshing leech-free swim. After my swim I explored the trails around camp.
The view from the landing of our Long Island Lake campsite
The campsite was in a cool, sheltered south facing bay. We shared the campsite with a large spider in a hole in a dead tree. The site felt warm and buggy without much breeze coming through. Near camp a sheltered hill provided a home to many species of mushroom.
At some point my husband started talking about maybe not wanting to tackle the Frost River, but then said the next two days I could choose where to camp. I decided immediately I wanted to go to Frost Lake in the morning and push on to the Frost River the next day. I felt if we didn't check out the Frost River this trip, we might never be near enough again, and would always regret not having paddled it.
The campsite's big resident spider.
Fungus among us
For dinner I made dehydrated chili garnished with crushed Fritos. After dinner we processed some firewood and had a fire to try to ward off the mosquitos and waited for a beautiful sunset. Once again we found ourselves talking about what we wanted to eat at the Trail Center on the way home. I had my heart set on the Prime Rib French Dip served on garlic butter toasted ciabatta.
With the sunset not visible from our campsite, the sky darkened without much fanfare. As we talked out turning in, a spectacular large orange moon rose to the south of camp and brightened our night. It was so beautiful even our teenager got off here phone and came outside to enjoy it. We stayed up watching that moon a long time before retiring to the tent.
Chili garnished with Fritos for dinner
View of the moonrise from our camp kitchen on Night 3
Goodnight Day 3
Day 4
On Day 4 we woke to a foggy morning which gave way to a warm, sunny day. We packed up and paddled southwest towards the Long Island River. We stopped to climb over a beaver dam and to make a 7 rod portage along the river. Then, we took the 28 rod portage into Gordon Lake. From Gordon Lake we did a 135 rod portage to small Unload Lake. We made a short paddle followed by a 37 rod portage into Frost Lake.
A perfectly still Long Island Lake before sunrise
A gorgeous, foggy view to the west
Ready for take-off from Campsite 570 on Long Island Lake
Heading towards Long Island River
Making friends along the way
Our family in the morning sun
Gordon Lake
A beautiful, still morning
A little rest break on the portage
Moving from Campsite 570 on Long Island Lake to Campsite 880 on Frost Lake
View from Campsite 880 on Frost Lake
The beach on Frost Lake
For lunch I made dehydrated fried rice with dehydrated ground beef and vegetables with dehydrated strawberries on the side. After lunch Dad and Ams set up their hammocks and I took a swim. The lake got busy with plenty of campers looking for campsites and for the rest of the day we saw and heard plenty of nearby campers and canoeists.
Dehydrated strawberries
My one word description for this campsite? Buggy! After my swim three different type of flies went after me. A large, persistent horse fly, deer flies and some smaller ankle biters. Although the day felt hot, after I dried off I put on long pants and sleeves to hide from the flies and mosquitos. The bugs were not all pests, and I did also see some wonderful insect life. Many species of butterfly visited throughout the sunny part of the day, and several of them landed on me.
Mourning Cloak
Grasshopper climbing my leg
Later that afternoon, the wind picked up and camp began to cool off. I made Knorr creamy chicken flavored rice with dehydrated chicken and a side of applesauce for dinner. After dinner we processed some wood and had a campfire to ward off the mosquitos. We played some dice games until the bugs drove us crazy, then we retreated to the tent. Both Day 4 and Day 5 were to be my choice, and I chose paddling the Frost River for Day 5. Soon a fat orange moon rose over Frost Lake. We hopped back out of the tent and watched in awe. Night 4 we slept soundly with plans to paddle the Frost River in the morning.
A fat red moon rising over Frost Lake
Good night Day 4
Day 5
We woke to a gorgeous sunrise over Frost Lake on Day 5. I ate my daily bag of homemade granola for breakfast, then woke our daughter and start packing. We paddled off into a sunny morning. Today we'd tackle the most challenging leg of this trip - the Frost River.
A gorgeous sunrise on Frost Lake
Granola
Paddling on Frost Lake towards Frost River
We had also heard the Frost River contained many ankle twisting rocks on the many portage landings as well as on the portage trails. This also turned out to be true. We hadn't heard that we would see many leeches on the canoe and paddles, but we did. If you like a small river with many twists and turns filled with lily pads, beaver dams, and leeches, the Frost is your river!
Octopus Lake along the Frost River Route
A portage along the Frost River
Frost River
At the Southwest corner of Frost Lake we began our journey west taking a 133 rod portage along the Frost River, paddled the river a little bit, took an 15 rod portage and followed the river into Octopus Lake. After paddling through Octopus Lake we took a 20 rod portage continuing west along the Frost River stopping for a 15, 5, and 30 rod portage before entering Chase Lake. Once on Chase Lake, if the portages and beaver dams become a bit much, there is an opportunity to take a short portage into Bologna Lake and camp. We chose instead to continue westward, taking a 21 portage into Pencil Lake.
Along the Frost River Route
Portaging around rapids on the Frost River
Pencil Lake along the Frost River Route
One of many beaver dams along the Frost River
The Frost River
After paddling the length of Pencil Lake we began a nice long stretch of winding, mostly narrow river with many beaver dams along the way. We took a 54 rod portage and continued along the Frost River where we stopped for 10, 13, 12 and 10 rod portages. When we got to the point we could see Afton Lake not far off. We had climbed 11 beaver dams and based on the previously mentioned forum report on BWCA.com, we thought we were done with those. Then we saw that between us and Afton Lake were 2 more beaver dams to climb over, barely 40 feet apart.
Climbing over a beaver dam on the Frost River
Frost River
One boot and one croc
Another beaver dam
We were barely able to just scoot by this beaver dam
Pulling over another beaver dam
Ams and I both managed to fill a boot with water on the Frost River. Ams decided to make the journey with one boot and one croc. I ended up taking a leech off her ankle, but even that didn't convince her that crocs aren't the greatest foot-ware for rocky portages and scaling beaver dams.
Afton Lake
Finishing the Frost River heading onto Afton Lake
The Frost River provided all the beauty and solitude anyone could ask for. When we arrived at Afton Lake we found Campsite 868 open and were glad to find a place to rest. We truly felt alone all day. Watching two boats come off the Frost River from camp surprised us, snapping us out of that solitary feeling. I'm sure the folks that did the Frost River behind us felt as hot, tired and ready for a campsite as we did when we came off the Frost River. They said hello and paddled on.
The sky darkened as we set up camp. I made dehydrated enchilada rice with dehydrated taco meat garnished with cheese and crushed Fritos. Before long it rained. Our plans to dry out our river soaked boots would need to wait for a brighter day.
Paddling the Frost River, moving from Campsite 882 on Frost Lake to Campsite 864 on Afton Lake
Afton Lake
Starting to rain in camp on Afton Lake
Dehydrated Spanish rice with dehydrated taco meat garnished with Cheese and Fritos.
That evening, our teenager, who loves to tell us she doesn't like camping and paddling said, "everyday should be like today, it would be less boring." As I sit here enjoying the memory, I couldn't agree more. The route for the rest of the trip would be my husband's choice, and he talked about heading towards Gillis Lake to check out a couple of campsites he had in mind. As we huddled under the tarp talking, we came to the conclusion the rain would continue for the evening. We turned in early with plans to head to Gillis Lake in the morning.
Day 6
On day 6 we woke to a cool, wet morning. We broke camp, and started our day of rugged, rocky portages. We packed our wet tent and tarp, and paddled west across Afton Lake to the 17 rod portage into Fente Lake. I thought starting the day with a 17 rod portage would be quite easy in comparison with the big day of portaging we had just completed. This short portage started with a steep climb, so steep I had to remove my front pack and carry only the barrel on my back to get up some of the steep parts. What could be worse? The steep trip back down! My husband's canoe dropped and started sliding down the steep, rocky portage. Luckily it sustained no cracks or damage.
Gray sunrise on Afton Lake
Paddling on Fente Lake
Whipped Lake
Moving from Campsite 864 on Afton Lake to Campsite 503 on Gillis Lake
We portaged 98 rods into Mora Lake and paddled north. At the north end of Mora lake we entered the 2006 Cavity Lake Burn area. We paddled up a narrow channel towards the portage into Tarry Lake. Our hearts sunk when saw a beaver dam after the previous days' 13 beaver dam climb-overs. We laughed about it, climbed over, and continued on to the 8 rod portage into Tarry Lake. We paddled Tarry Lake, and took a 40 rod portage into Crooked Lake.
Beaver Dam on Mora Lake
Burn Area on Mora Lake
Tarry Lake
Crooked Lake
A headwind picked up on Crooked Lake. We paddled north and took the 88 rod portage into Gillis Lake. We paddled north on Gillis Lake to campsite 503. This campsite had plenty of gorgeous views of Gillis Lake, a handful of spots for tent pads, and plenty of room to roam. As we set up camp the sun came out and the wind strengthened. Many canoeists paddled up to see if the site might be available and we felt lucky to have gotten our early start. I attributed the busy day to it being a Saturday.
The sun came out on Gillis Lake
View of camp from below
We made dehydrated spaghetti for lunch. After lunch my daughter went to the tent to play with her phone, my husband put up his hammock, and I took a swim. For dinner we made dehydrated mashed potatoes with dehydrated ground beef and cheese. Before long the sun went down and we turned in for the night with plans to relax and enjoy this campsite for another day.
Goodnight Day 6
Day 7
On Day 7 I woke to the sounds of loons calling in the distance. Before long the sky began to lighten and a beautiful sunrise took shape. The sky and water became orange with early morning glow, silhouetting a family of ducks on a rock in the lake. As the sun rose, the younger ducks did drills, one by one forming lines in the water, swimming in formation, diving below the surface of the water one after the next, then returning to the rock. I ate my usual granola for breakfast and watched the sky and the ducks until the morning sun became too bright. Then I did some stretching and calisthenics until my husband rose. We spent some time gathering firewood for later.
The sky begins to lighten, Morning #7
Ducks showed up on the rock as the sun began to rise
Beautiful sun
A gorgeous early morning view to the south
Morning sun on the trees to the west
This was a Sunday. The campsites on the lake emptied early, and we felt much more alone. Ams loves to sleep late as teenagers do. When she rolled out of the tent closer to lunchtime than breakfast, I made pancakes and bacon. Unfortunately I added a bit too much water to the pancake mix making the cakes more like crepes than pancakes. They looked a little funny, but tasted quite fantastic. After lunch it became extremely windy and cloudy, Although we felt a few sprinkles, it didn't rain despite some very fat gray clouds overhead. My husband and I enjoyed a nice swim and watched the waves roll by.
Flat crepey pancakes with butter and bacon
Lounging by the lake after a good swim
A crevice large enough to hold a tall man with extra headroom
Colorful life on a rock
Later in the day my daughter and I went for a walk and had a good talk on a rock by the lake. We stayed on that rock so long my backside got numb and I more hobbled than walked back to camp. Gillis lake stayed windy but quiet all day. The partly sunny day turned into a completely cloudy evening. We had hash browns and bacon for dinner. The mosquitos started to gather around, so we lit a campfire. We decided to try for the island campsite on Tuscarora Lake in the morning, and thus ended another beautiful day in the BWCA.
Campfire on Gillis Lake
Day 8
On Day 8, I enjoyed my breakfast granola by moonlight. The clouds began to gather making for a rather beautiful sunrise. We packed our things and got ready to paddle south on Gillis Lake back towards the portage into Crooked Lake. The morning turned gray and windy. We felt an occasional sprinkle.
Video Days 7 - 10
Moon in the morning
The gathering clouds
Sun rising behind the clouds
We portaged 88 rods into Crooked Lake, then paddled east towards Owl Lake. We portaged 50 rods to Owl Lake where we saw an interesting skull on a rock in the lake. We paddled over to check out the scull and saw what looked like other moose bones under water. The sky grew darker as we paddled Owl Lake and we heard thunder rumble in the distance.
Leaving campsite 503 on Gillis Lake
On the portage trail from Crooked Lake to Owl Lake
Scull on rock on Owl Lake
Owl Lake
Portage from Owl Lake to Tuscarora Lake
Tuscarora Lake
In camp on Tuscarora Lake
Paddling from Campsite 503 on Gillis Lake to campsite 519 on Tuscarora Lake
Lunch!
After lunch, Ams climbed a tree just for fun. It became colder and I decided not to swim. Dad and Ams relaxed in their hammocks while I explored the island checking out the lake from every vantage point, photographing mushrooms, and relaxing near the water. It sprinkled occasionally but never rained hard.
Mushroom!
Another mushroom!
For dinner I made dehydrated beef stroganoff. We watched a gorgeous sunset and the bugs began to worsen. We built a fire and made plans to spend more time enjoying the campsite the next day.
Sunset Day 8.
Night 8 campfire
Day 9
Morning Day 9 started cold and windy. I made my way to the east-facing side of the island to watch the sunrise. Eating my usual bag of granola while watching loons and ducks, I took my time. Today we would stay in camp and relax.
Morning Day 9
The moon before sunrise on Tuscarora Lake
Sun's up on the east side of the island
For lunch we had freeze dried meals, pepper beef, which no one particularly liked, and chicken fried rice which Ams loved. Weary of dehydrated and freeze dried camping food, we once again spent some time dreaming of what we planned to order to eat at the trail center. I found it quite brilliant that our daughter had downloaded a copy of the Trail Center menu and saved it on her phone. I had mentally moved on from the Prime Rib Sandwich and now craved the Ultimate Garden Salad with Bacon and a cup of homemade soup. This day the wind blew at a light sprinkling of rain fell from time to time. I felt a bit chilled and decided not to swim.
Mushrooms
A cold, gray day
We spent a good bit of time obsessing over the Trail Center menu. I cooked dehydrated shepherd's pie for dinner. After a beautiful sunset and a campfire we turned in for our final night of sleep in the BWCA.
Sunset Day 9
Last campfire of the trip
The evening sky to the south
Goodnight Day 9
Day 10
On Day 10 we woke around 3:30 am to a thunderstorm. The lightning struck ever closer and the thunder grew louder. Before long the rain became torrential, and it rained hard for several hours. When the rain finally slowed to a sprinkle, I went out to have breakfast. Soon it began to rain again. I huddled under the tarp waiting for it to stop.
Good morning Day 10
Day 10 on Tuscarora Lake
It did rain lightly on and off again as we broke camp, packing a very wet, very dirty tarp and tent. Eventually the sun found ways to peak between the clouds. We even enjoyed a brief rainbow. When we felt certain the thunderstorm had gone, we loaded the canoe and paddled northeast towards the Tuscarora-to-Missing-Link Portage. This portage, at 362 rods, is over a mile long and rocky, starting with an upward climb on the Tuscarora side.
Group photo on Tuscarora Lake
Paddling from Campsite 519 on Tuscarora Lake to Tuscarora Outfitters on Round Lake
Heading up the portage is like climbing in a creek bed due to the large amount of rain
From the landing on Tuscarora Lake, we portaged upward. The portage felt more like a creek bed than a trail due to the rushing water and rocks everywhere. In the low lying areas of the portage we slogged through the water with boardwalks below inches of water. The clouds dried up for the most part and the day became warm and sunny. On the portage we ran into other campers and that alone in the wilderness feeling faded.
The portage going up continues to be flooded
Low lying area on the portage, the boardwalk is flooded from last night's rain
A rest break after a long portage
We paddled across Missing Link Lake and saw people in camp. We waited for a family to clear the portage from Missing Link Lake to Round Lake before approaching. They had a toddler and also young son, who took great pride in his paddling. I love to see young families in the BWCA, the more young people grow to love this place, the greater the probability it will last into the future.
Missing Link Lake
Missing Link Lake
We found the 137 rod portage from Missing Link Lake to Round Lake almost as wet and rocky as the Tuscarora-to-Missing-Link Portage. On this portage we passed the BWCA sign, and I felt my heart sink a little bit as we officially exited the Boundary Waters. We paddled across Round Lake to Tuscarora Lodge. My husband walked to the Entry Point #50 parking area and retrieved the car, while I went inside and paid for showers. After our showers we started driving and talking about the wonderful Trail Center menu selections we'd been fantasizing about for 10 days while eating camp food.
Portage from Missing Link Lake to Round Lake
Exiting the BWCA on the Portage Between Missing Link Lake and Round Lake
Round Lake
The bartender suggested we head over to the Hungry Jack Lodge for food food. We found Hungry Jacks quite busy and spent a good bit of time there waiting to order, then waiting for a meal. With that our vacation ended and we started the long drive home.
Hungry Jack's Lodge
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