Boundary Waters 2017: Meeds Lake Entry Point 48 to Campsites on Meeds Lake, Omega Lake, Gaskin Lake and Vista Lake

On our 2017 trip to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA) our family entered the BWCA at Entry Point #48, Meeds Lake. We spent 8 nights camped on Meeds, Omega, Gaskin and Vista Lakes before exiting at Entry Point #47, Lizz Lake. We stuck our feet into mud holes and slipped and fell on slick rocks and roots. We paddled against 30 mph gusts, sunned ourselves on slabs of bedrock, swam in pristine waters, and marveled at the wonders of nature. We grew closer to one another as we worked as a team to travel, set camp, and overcome the challenges of life away from modern conveniences.


On these trips, we set goals and overcome obstacles. We become self reliant as we travel, and reliant on one another. Gator Paddler (Dad) portages the canoe and navigates. I carry packs, power the bow, and hold Am's hand for big steps up. Ams and I set up the tent and inflate sleeping mats, while Dad rigs up the tarp. I cook and clean dishes, Dad and Ams start fires. Winds whip up on the lake and we dig in, paddling as a team. Rains come and together we rush to secure camp. We grow closer to nature and closer to one another.

Trip Map.

Day 0 - The trip to Northeastern Minnesota

After many weeks of planning, food dehydration, packing and great anticipation, we were finally headed north. We played Jerry Van Diver's paddle songs in the car to set the mood. We stopped in Two Harbors for a delicious lunch at the Blackwoods Grill and Bar. I opted for the caesar salad with salmon and enjoyed it thoroughly.

Because our daughter loves historic places, we toured the Split Rock Lighthouse along the way. While the Saturday crowds at the lighthouse overwhelmed the experience, we loved the views and the breezes felt fantastic. We arrived in the late afternoon at the Rockwood Lodge and Outfitters, and spent the night at their bunkhouse before launching from Poplar Lake in the morning.

Anchor of the Madeira at the Split Rock Lighthouse.

View of Lake Superior from the Split Rock Lighthouse.

Split Rock Lighthouse.

Day 1 - Into the BWCA

We rose early. With a fresh chill in the air, we set off from Poplar Lake. The sun slid over the horizon, brightening the day. We doubled portaged 290 rods into Meeds Lake, and were no longer cold.  I took a good hard fall onto the rocks and into the mud on that portage. I cut my hand enough to mess my shirt up with a few stray drops of blood. I learned right away, I'm no super-duper canoe tripper, just a regular working mom away from the office getting schooled by the portage trail.

Day 1 Map: Poplar Lake to campsite on Meeds Lake.

Video of Day 0 & Day 1

We met one other party on the portage, passed a father-son party paddling out of Meeds Lake and saw another twosome fishing on Meeds Lake. The lake became windier and we saw the island campsite (#616) empty, so we decided to check it out. We liked the site. Once we settled in, we saw no one, and heard no other campers on the lake.

Interesting skyline on Poplar Lake.

Coaxing Ams to get up and complete our double portage from Poplar Lake to Meeds Lake.

Plentiful raspberries on the portage trail from Poplar Lake to Meeds Lake.

Meeds Lake looks oh so inviting after the long, muddy double portage.

We set up camp with a great show of teamwork and all hands pitching in, and quickly found some teachable moments for Ams. We talked to her about how live birch trees had slashes on them and bark removed while plenty of birch bark from dead trees could have been gathered. We enlisted her help picking up tea bags and other debris including what appeared to be a full pot of alfredo noodles dumped quite near camp. Ams talked me into making three braids in her hair and weaving them into one final braid. She felt quite proud of coming up with a new hair style. We enjoyed a wonderful sunset and a good night of sleep.

Time to prepare beef stroganoff on Meeds Lake.

Picture time on Day 1, everyone looks so clean and unrumpled on our first night in camp.

Day 1 sunset on Meeds Lake.

After sunset on Meeds Lake.

Day 2 - Eclipse Day on Meeds Lake

As I waited for my sleeping family to join me in camp the morning of Day 2, I watched an eagle across the lake and waited for sunrise. I heard the juvenile eagles squawking for the adult, and looked forward to sharing my discovery with Ams. When the sun rose, the eagle climbed down into the nest, and was not to be seen again. Soon the lake became a magical swirl of powder blue and pink and mist. Although the eastern sky was not visible from our campsite, sunrise still offered a spell-binding view from our vantage point.

Ams woke up very excited about the eclipse, and we decided to stay on our site and enjoy a day of eclipse peeping. Luckily for Ams, one of the ladies from the office had been giving away eclipse glasses and we brought them along for her use. What a thrill slowly watching the moon nibble away at the sun's shape. About a quarter of the way in, clouds obscured the sun and much to Am's disappointment, the eclipse remained hidden until the last quarter of the moon had begun to slide away from the sun. About this time, a party paddled by to check on the site's availability and headed off towards the portage to Caribou Lake. These were the only people we saw or heard on Day 2.

Eagle on Meeds Lake at dawn.

Sunrise time on Meeds Lake.

Meeds Lake

To entertain herself Ams began to make up games. She came up with a game where she applies objects to the back of her partner's neck and the partner must guess what's touching his skin. She enjoyed many giggles from this. We also found a number of frogs to chase around the campsite. Extra thrilling for Ams because she is oddly afraid of frogs, yet fascinated by them. Ah, yes. Take the screens away and kids get bored and find things to do.

Ribbit!

Still early into the trip, we broke into the food barrel and enjoyed eating our family favorites. Dad and Ams enjoyed a swim, while the swimming weather was too cold for my taste. Dad went on a search for some good firewood. We enjoyed a nice campfire and played games in camp. Before long, night fell. We enjoyed our time on this campsite, and felt good to know we left it at least a little better than we found it - and with a nice stash of firewood for the next campers.

Near camp on Meeds Lake.

Sunset Day 2.

In camp on Meeds Lake.

Updated with Day 2 video - Day 2, Eclipse Day on Meeds Lake

Day 3 - Omega Lake

On day 3, we woke early and packed up camp. We realized how slow at this we had become and decided we needed to become a little more efficient next time we broke camp. With the food barrel just a little lighter, but still too heavy for me to hoist onto my back on my own, we headed out with the goal of reaching Omega Lake. We paddled against a headwind out of the West, and felt our muscles burn. We saw no other campers or paddlers on Meeds Lake.

Map from Meeds Lake to Omega Lake.

Updated with Day 3 video of our family's 2017 BWCA trip.

We took the 104 rod portage into Swallow Lake followed by a 90 rod portage into Pilsbery Lake (I've seen spellings Pilsbery on Paddle Planner and Pillsbury on the BWCA forum. Let's just all agree we're talking about the lake between Swallow and Henson and not sweat the spelling). Both portages offered muddy, overgrown stretches such that we wondered if we had wandered off trail for a moment here and there. We saw both bear and moose tracks on these portages and greatly enjoyed munching on raspberries and blueberries. Each of us slipped and fell on rocks and roots hiding beneath the deep mud at least once. We saw no other campers or paddlers.

Windblown and rather scruffier and frizzy-haired by Day 3 on the portage from Swallow Lake to Pilsbery Lake.

Gorgeous Swallow Lake.

As I snapped this picture my husband sunk in the mud and fell with the canoe. I was so startled I dropped the camera in
the mud as I headed towards him to see if he was okay.  He was fine but a little dirty, as was the camera.

Ams needs a snack break.

Plenty of blueberries along the portage trails on Day 3.

We took a muddy 51 rod portage into Henson Lake. The headwind out of the west had strengthened (30 mph gusts according to the weather radio) and we dug in hard. We saw no other paddlers and found only one campsite on Henson occupied. By the time we'd reached the 31 rod portage into Omega, the sky had become ominous. We felt ready to camp. We paddled to the nearest site on the north arm of Omega Lake and made camp on site #591.

View of gorgeous Omega Lake from our new campsite, Day 3.

Cloudy Omega Lake.

Here comes the rain!

Before we had the chance to erect the tarp, cold winds blew in and a nice hard rain shower had us scrambling to cover our gear. Conveniently, the sun reappeared in the late afternoon and dried our belongings. We appeared to be the only campers on the lake. Our site offered a nice view as well as some nice rocks for drying our belongings in the sun. Unfortunately, the site had little room to roam - in fact we could watch one another sitting on the toilet from camp. With no firewood to be found near camp, and no desire to get back on the water and fight the wind looking for firewood, we decided to turn in early without a fire and paddle on in the morning.

Ams and Mama after the rain passed through.

Day 4 - Our Second Omega Lake Campsite

We woke to a sunny, windy August morning and packed up camp with greater efficiency than before. Mama and Ams took a little time to run around the campsite taking selfies while Dad took down the tarp.

Updated with Day 4 video - Moving to Campsite #592 on Omega Lake

Ams in the kitchen of our first Omega Lake campsite.

Ams is ready to paddle on from our first Omega Lake campsite.

Last look at the view to the south from our first Omega Lake campsite.

We paddled away from camp with a tailwind and headed across the lake to campsite #592. At this site we found million dollar views, plenty of room for Ams to scamper around and play, lots of blueberries, and a nice set up. We made camp while the wind did its best to tug at our gear. We quickly found firewood in short supply and Dad used some wet wood onsite to make a displeasing fire that required more work than it was worth. We decided to paddle around and look for wood the next day when the wind died down. We enjoyed a wonderful sunset and turned in for a good night's sleep.

View to the north from our second campsite on Omega Lake.

View to the west from our second campsite on Omega Lake.

Hilltop view from our second Omega Lake campsite.

Picking berries in camp on Omega Lake.

Interesting hilltop plant life on Omega Lake.

Fungus among us on Omega Lake.

Ams scampered about the site like a little squirrel ever returning to this rock as home base.
She renamed herself squirrel and named this rock squirrel rock.

Sunset at our second Omega Lake campsite, Day 4.

Post-sunset, Day 4.

Day 5 - A Gorgeous Day in Camp on Omega Lake

We woke to a still morning with fog so thick we couldn't see the lake. I relished the time sitting in camp watching the fog slowly disappear as the sun strengthened its position in the sky. The stillness of the water felt peaceful in contrast with the previous two days. After the fog had lifted, my family woke, and we headed out to find firewood. We also paddled around to check out the other campsites on the lake and learned we were the only campers on Omega Lake. After our paddle Ams lured me into the water for a swim. Despite the cool day, I swam with Ams while Dad worked on cutting firewood. We did see one party of 5 women move through in the afternoon and said hello. They stopped at another campsite for lunch, but didn't camp on Omega Lake. I told my husband I wanted to be friends with them, did he think they'd let me paddle along. I need friends like this!

Awoke to a very still lake on Day 5.

Swimming in Omega Lake despite the cool temperatures on Day 5.

We explored all the old trails around camp, and followed one trail to the top of the hill for a spectacular view of Omega Lake, and more blueberries. Ams made up some fun games to play in camp. As much as I detest rocks and roots, she made up a game by that name and insisted that we could only make our way around camp by stepping on rocks or roots at all times. She also made up a stick and rock tic-tac-toe toss game and a three level rock toss basketball game with sticks as markers. Her biggest fun occurred when we found a discarded rubber band on the latrine trial. I hunted up a Y-shaped stick and made a slingshot. She had a wonderful time with her new toy and it felt wonderful to sit down for a while and relax as she did a spectacular job entertaining herself.

Updated with Day 5 Video 

Omega Lake.

Ghost eyes on Omega Lake.

Since Dad built a nice fire, we enjoyed fresh baked goods from the reflector oven. My family decided that the meal we ate for dinner on Day 5 was the best meal of the trip. So what was this super-awesome meal? Funny you should ask. It was the meal I feared my husband would dislike due to its low meat content. Idahoan Loaded Baked Potato Soup served with bacon bits, a side of Bisquick Cheesy Garlic Biscuits cooked in the reflector oven, and a side of reconstituted dehydrated apple sauce.

This beautiful day drew to a close all to quickly. Before we knew it, another beautiful sunset fell across the sky, a crescent moon appeared, and night fell.

Goodnight moon, Day 5 on Omega Lake.

Day 6 - Eastward Bound

We awoke to another foggy morning and packed our things. Setting out, we headed towards Vista Lake. We saw no one on Omega Lake and no one on the 46 Rod portage into Winchell Lake. Once we got onto Winchell Lake, most campsites were full and we saw other paddlers. We paddled east on Winchell Lake and wouldn't you know it, the wind now blew in from the east. Another headwind, although not as strong as before, 10 mph according to the weather service.

The fog begins to lift on Omega Lake.

Leaving some dry firewood in a safe place for the next campers on Omega Lake.

Winchell Lake.

Winchell Lake in the burn area.

Gaskin Lake at the mucky end of the portage.

Map to Gaskin Lake.

Update: Day 6 video!

On the 52 rod portage into Gaskin Lake, we ran into a party who told us they had just left a wonderful campsite on a peninsula on Gaskin Lake fully stocked with firewood. It happened to be along our route to Vista Lake, so we decided to give it a look. When we arrived at campsite #628 on Gaskin Lake, we immediately changed our plans for the day and decided to stay. The popularity of this site became evident as party after party stopped by to check on its availability. The landing had stairs rather than a muddy collection of rocks and roots as found on a typical BWCA campsite. The camp area was large, the kitchen nice, and the views spectacular.

Warming up on a rock before taking a swim in Gaskin Lake.

Fun with rock art, Day 6.

Sunset over Gaskin Lake Day 6.

 

Post-sunset on Gaskin Lake, Day 6.

Campsite  #628 on Gaskin Lake provided plenty of room to roam, and Ams insisted on exploring all the side trails before we set up camp. We enjoyed a nice swim and awesome sunset views. We drifted off to sleep awaiting rain (forecasted for Days 7&8) with another fantastic day in the BWCA on the books.

Day 7 - A Rainy Day in Camp on Gaskin Lake

I woke to an unexpected surprise - a beautiful morning, still and misty. The rain held off until lunchtime. When the wind and rains did come, it rained all day and throughout the night. My husband did a wonderful job rigging up the tarp to maximize our useful space while minimizing wetness. Given the weather, we hung around under the tarp staring at the lake and considering ourselves lucky to have such a wonderful campsite to hang out at. Although rain remained in the forecast for Day 8, we had promised ourselves to target the 5 star campsite on Vista Lake this trip, and decided to pack up and move in the morning.

Morning photo Day 7 on Gaskin Lake.

Inch worm on Gaskin Lake.

Updated with Day 7-9 video.

Day 8 - Headed to Vista Lake

A wet, misty morning greeted us. We packed our soaked, dirty tent and tarp and paddled off into a light rain. We took a 98 rod portage into Horseshoe Lake and saw plenty of loons, ducks, and other small animals on Horseshoe Lake playing in the rain. We took the 27 rod portage into Vista Lake and were amazed to find our target campsite, #771, empty. We saw no other paddlers on the lakes and portage trails on the way to Vista Lake, but we did see occupied campsites on Gaskin and Horseshoe Lakes. 

Map to Vista Lake.

Rainy view from our Vista Lake campsite, Day 8.

Sun-speckled Ams on Day 8.

Rain stopped long enough to take a family picture, Day 8.

Big frog, Day 8. 

Tiny frog, Day 8.

We arrived at our target campsite to find it soupy with mud. We set up our tent on a tent pad that looked like a mud pie as light rain fell. Once again my husband did a fantastic job tarp-rigging. We stayed dry and slapped mosquitoes under the tarp for the remainder of the day. Later that day we saw one party come across the lake and take the campsite nearest ours. Despite the persistently grey skies, we enjoyed a wonderful view from our campsite on Vista Lake. I could only imagine how beautiful it would be were the sun to break through. We talked, chased frogs, dug into the bottom of our food barrel for snacks, and hung out under the tarp to escape the rain. 

Ams favorite snacks (cheese, M&Ms, Knorr pasta dishes, and Starburst) now long gone, she began to dream of foods she'd like to eat after leaving the BWCA. She asked Mama about getting steak, mashed potatoes and green beans for the first meal home, and got very excited when Daddy said something about stopping at the Trail Center. She quickly brought up the prospect of a baked potato and a kiddie cocktail, and spoke of it endlessly.

Day 9 - So Sad to Say Farewell to the BWCA

On Day 9 we woke to a wet morning as light mist fell. We packed our things and prepared for the paddle out. I easily whipped the food barrel onto my back with one hand, the same food barrel I could not heave onto my back on my own at the start of our trip. We stuffed our wet, muddy things into backpacks and really didn't care how dirty and smelly we might be. It just wasn't something we paid much attention to any longer.

Map back to the Rockwood Lodge and Outfitters.

We paddled across gorgeous Vista Lake to the rocky portage to Horseshoe Lake. Maybe it was the effect of the rain slickening the slime-covered rocks, perhaps something else, but my husband and I both had potentially nasty falls trying to unload the canoe and scamper across the rocks with our things. When we pushed off from the other side we breathed a sigh of relief - no injuries and easy travel ahead.

Day 9 smiles on Horseshoe Lake, the rain finally stopped.

Horseshoe Lake, Day 9.

Starting to see the first signs of fall on the portage trail, Day 9.

We paddled Horseshoe Lake and didn't see as much wildlife as on the paddle in. We noticed all of the sites on Horseshoe Lake now appeared unoccupied, perhaps because it was a Monday, and we ran into our first party on the 22 rod portage from Horseshoe Lake to Caribou Lake. Once we entered Caribou Lake, we began to see a number of other parties in camp, on the lakes, and on the portage trail. Entry Point #48 Lizz Lake appears to be a busy and popular route.


We took a 68 rod portage from Caribou Lake to Lizz Lake and exited the Boundary Waters at Entry Point #47 on Lizz Lake. We took a 46 rod portage from Lizz Lake to Poplar Lake. As we paddled across Poplar Lake we noticed patches of blue sky emerging between the clouds. As I pulled our last pack from the canoe at the Rockwood Lodge and Outfitters, the day brightened and I felt the sun's heat on my back. The sun came out just in time to say goodbye.

I declared this the best food I've ever tasted, Day 9 at the Trail Center.

Ams scores a Beaver hat after lunch at the trail center.

These trips pull forth appreciation for all we have. Warm showers, soft beds, dry homes. We relished our first showers after leaving the BWCA, and the food we ate at the Trail Center tasted heavenly. Ams thrilled at her baked potato and kiddie cocktail. Our vacation ending, we headed south into the rainbow quietly reflecting on our trip.

Taking these trips draws us closer to nature, closer to one another, closer to ourselves. It's not just about the nine brief days in the wilderness. It's about how those nine days change the years that follow. Wilderness puts something into our hearts. Time in the wilderness changes who we are. We carry these experiences with us for the rest of our lives. I felt sad to leave it all behind and head back to the routine of work and school. But our family can't have vacations without work, and I look fondly forward to 2018's adventures.

For our menu plan and list of what we packed in the blue barrel check out our blog post and YouTube video.

Video showing our food and cookware for 3 people for our 9 day trip into the BWCA.

That's all for now. Let's get outdoors and keep our wild places wild!

Following the rainbow home from the BWCA, 2017.

Trip Map.